45 Degrees South (Te Anau and Milford)

I swear, just when we thought things couldn't possibly be any more beautiful, we made it to the Fiordland National Park.  Mountain peak after mountain peak, lakes, rivers, glacier basins, sunshine, waterfalls, this place is amazing.

We left Queenstown Sunday morning and made the drive out to Te Anau to see the town and pick up some last minute supplies as there are no stores to speak of once you get to Milford.  We had lunch there and then began the drive to Milford.  It is only 110kms but even the sign posting says to expect a 2 hours drive.  It would have been easy for it to take 8 hours, every corner we took was more beautiful than the last and we must have pulled over to take photos every 10 minutes.

After a quiet night in the Milford Lodge we were picked up and taken to the wharf to get on a boat for a day of scuba diving for Schuyler's birthday.  The water was really cold, about 15 celsius but the dives were amazing.  The sound has a layer of fresh water over the top which traps in a certain amount of light and heat so animals and corals that would normally live much deeper can thrive within about 16 meters under the water.  We saw crayfish, nudibranches, black coral (which is actually white, it turns black when it dies) and even a seal diving for fish.  In our time out of the water we saw huge waterfalls (even got to go swimming under one) and enjoyed some great time on the water.

The next day (our last day in Milford) we woke up to some of the heaviest rains I have ever seen.  We spent a good part of the day in the lodge just watching the rain fall and sipping tea but we did get out on a short trek to see some the bigger waterfalls in the area.  The waterfalls here only come out when it is raining so we felt pretty lucky to get to see them in full force.

Today we are in Te Anau after a beautiful night on Lake Manapouri.  We are spending the day here as I'm teaching a yoga workshop tomorrow morning and then heading south for more adventures.

My love to you all,
Kaitlyn

The Road to Queenstown

After leaving beautiful Glacier country we had a long day of driving through the mountains and decided to top at a campsite along Lake Hawea for the night.  It was like living in a postcard, calm, flat waters surrounded by mountain peaks and warm sun all around.  The beach was possibly the best place to skip rocks in the world, it was quiet and peaceful.

On our way to the lake we made a stop of for some Whitebait Patties.  Whitebait are little fish that are mostly used for bait but eating them in patty for was a true kiwi experience.  They were pretty good- a bit weird looking but delicious.

After the lake we spent a good part of the day in the town of Wanaka, just about 55kms from Queenstown.  Spent some time wandering along the lake and packed a picnic to take to a nearby winery before getting back on the road to spend in the Queenstown to gear up for a 4 day stay in Milford.

Glaciers!!

Wow!! What an amazing thing to see.  After we arrived and found a campsite in the town of Franz Joseph at the base of the mountain we headed out for a hike that took us within 100 meters of the glacier.  As we walked in we could feel the cold air rushing down and see just the peak of the glacier itself.  Getting closer we had a full view of the entire front of it.  Icy blue and beautiful.  So strange to think that just yesterday we were warm on the coast and walking along the beach...

Down the West Coast We Go!

Well, it was impossible to have sunshine everyday on our trip and when it rained, it poured.  Road closures, landslides and flooded campsites awaited us as we made our way down the coast from Motueka to Punakaiki.  I guess it was better to have it all at one time, it is now sunny again and we are in Hokitiki for a quick stop before making our way off the coast and down to the glaciers for a bit of hiking and exploring.

As promised however, here is a little more about the west coast:

Even though it was pouring down rain we made a stop at Bulller Gorge and cross New Zealand's longest swingbridge.  It was a bit scary and slippery due to the rain but we had a great time.





Once we hit the coast it was still pouring down rain but the rock formations and bush were just awe inspiring. 

There are very few towns on the west coast.  Greymouth is the biggest and it has a population of less than 10,000 but we had to stop for a few supplies and while we were there we took a tour of the Monteith Brewery, one of the bigger NZ beers but still made by hand in their craft style brewery.  Oh yeah, and they let us sample... a lot.

Perhaps I missed my career calling, I feel pretty comforable behind the bar...

Until next time, xoxo
Kaitlyn

The Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki

I have lots more to post on our journey down the west coast but here is a photo of the pancake rocks in Paparoa National Park. It is a different world down here on the south island. Remote and rugged- it feels a bit like stepping back in time, everything here feels super raw and exposed.

Until next time my friends,
K

Golden Bay

Everyone we have met on this trip has told us how beautiful the south island is but I never could have imagined this much beauty all in one place.  After our epic journey through Abel Tasman we made our way over Takaka Hill (which is a big mountain, not a hill) and into the glorious Golden Bay.  Golden sands due to the granite rocks that make up the region line a bay full of artisans and other creative types who have moved here to ‘get away from it all.’  We spent 2 days getting lost in this amazing scenery.  This is a magic place- and it has touched my soul.

The Grove Scenic Reserve, Takaka

Golden Bay

Te Wairapupu Springs

Whaririki Beach

Whaririki Beach

Abel Tasman National Park

So, how do you describe one of the most beautiful places in the world?  I don’t think you can, and I don’t think photos could ever do it justice. So here is very brief overview:

 We headed out on Friday morning to Mahau where we met our kayak guide, Kether and our fellow adventurers and get all set up.  From there we took a water taxi up to Tonga Island Marine Reserve where we began our journey.  14KM of kayaking, around a marine reserve to see the seals and birds that  swim and play in the water then to a beach that can only be accessed by boat with gold sand beaches and warm turquoise water.  We sat and enjoyed lunch together and had time to explore the rocky formations of the coast line and wander through the shallows. The last half of the day took us into the houseboat where we would spend the night and enjoy a BBQ  that was much needed after a day on the water.

Our starting point: Tonga Island Marine Reserve

Falls Lagoon

Saturday we were dropped on shore to walk the 12KM back to basecamp where our journey would end.  The weather was perfect, warm and sunny with a light breeze.  On the trek back we stopped at a secluded beach and had a swim, Sky and I were the only people on the beach, as well a picnic lunch at one of the other sunny bays before we made it back. 

Akerston Beach

The end of the trek

 There are journeys we all take that will stay with you forever.  This entire trip to New Zealand and wherever else we may go is just such a trip, and this trip to Abel Tasman, even though it was only 2 days, will also stay with me always.

From Picton to Motueka

Wellington feels like another lifetime already as we make our way into the rugged coastlines of the south island.  We got on a ferry in Wellington for a 3 hour sea voyage across the Cook Straight, through open water and then the mouth of the Marlborough Sounds, dolphins welcoming us in and landed in the town of Picton. 

We decided to venture on and make it to Nelson for the night, camping out in a cute little holiday park just outside of town.  Nelson is known for its arts and crafts community so we spent the afternoon perusing beautiful pottery and other local crafts, enjoying a coffee and a pint along the way.

Nelson was lovely but we were keen to get out of the city and into the country so we ventured on to the seaside harbor of Mapua for the day.  We spent the day on the waterfront, enjoying some local brews (Gold Bear Brewery) and local smoked fish for dinner.

We left Nelson this morning and wandered through Tasman, having some breakfast and feeding the local eel population at the Jester House Cafe and then wandering off the beaten track for a few hours to visit Kina Peninsula.  Oysters, mussels, baby crabs, sea stars and views of the entire bay and the most southern part of Abel Tasman National Park (where we are headed tomorrow but that is another story)- it was a great way to start the day.

Today we are in the town of Motueka where we'll spend the night before heading into the park tomorrow for a 2 day kayaking and hiking trip and spending the night on a house boat in the Tasman Sea. 

Until next time-  loving and missing you all- wish you could be here- I don't think it would be possible to travel in New Zealand without falling in love, it is a place like no other.

xoxo
Kaitlyn

Goodbye Wellington

Our 6 weeks in Welly has flown by in the blink of an eye.  We made some great friends and explored every part of the city we could find.  However, we are off to new adventures and back to living out of the van and in nature on the south island of this amazing country.  I'll miss all the beautiful people we have met, but we will meet again, this world isn't that big, they will all come to Seattle and visit us (right??).

Miss you all already,

xoxo
Kaitlyn

Self Saucing Chocolate Pudding

Wow, chocolate fans be warned- you might just find yourself eating up the entire pan of this.  Warm chocolate cake surrounded by warm, gooey chocolate pudding.  Savor every bite- this is magic...

Ingredients:
100gm butter
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp cocoa powder
1 1/3 cup flour
4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2/3 cup milk
1/2 tsp vanilla
--
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup white sugar
4 tsp cocoa powder
2 cups boiling water

Directions:
1.  Preheat oven to 180C
2.  Melt butter and mix in sugar and cocoa from first grouping of ingredients
3.  Add flour, baking powder and salt and mix until just combined
4.  Mix in milk and vanilla
5.  Pour batter into an oven proof dish with high sides (it will boil up a bit on the oven as it bakes)
6.  Combine brown and white sugar with remaining cocoa powder from second group of ingredients and sprinkle over batter
7.  Just before putting on the oven sprinkle boiling water over the whole thing, pouring the water over a spoon helps get an even pour
8.  Bake 40 minutes or until the cake springs back a bit when you touch it
9.  Serve with cream (whipped, ice or fresh from the fridge, its all delicious)

Best Food in Wellington

We just had the best lunch at Maranui Cafe in Lyall Bay, Wellington.  By far the most delicious restaurant meal we've had since we got here, and a great view of the ocean. 

Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon

The Cafe

The view

Oh yeah, and a trip to the WETA Workshop, where they did all the special effect for 'Lord of the Rings' and 'King Kong' along with all sorts of other films.  Sometimes its fun to be a dork.

Armor from Lord of the Rings

Have a great weekend everyone-

xoxo
Kaitlyn

Waitomo Glow Worm Caves and New Years in Raglan

After a little over a month in Wellington we decided it was time to get out and see a bit more of the north island before we took the ferry south so we made a trek up through Waitomo, famous for its glow worm caves and to Raglan for an epic New Years Eve party on a farm overlooking the ocean.

The caves in Waitomo have been forming and changing for thousands of years, the limestone erodes and forms new caves and inside the caves are stalagtites galore, ranging from itty bitty to longer than I am tall.  We took a walk through one of the scenic reserves after nightfall in hopes of catching a few glimpses of the glow worms, which are actually some sort of larvae that glows blue at night.

The glow worms were beautiful.  It felt a bit like walking through a scene of Avatar or some sort of fairie land- everything was alive and glowing.  We spent a good deal of time in silence just taking it all in and absorbing the magic of this place.  I will never forget it.

Sky exploring the caves

 We stayed at a great little hostel just a few kilometers from the caves that had some farm animals, including Lucky, a 5 week old calf that I was lucky enough to feed.  He was so cute :)

 

Our first night in Raglan we had some time to catch up with Karin and Ollie, a couple we met our first trip through Raglan.  I could easily live at their house, they have a huge garden, chickens that lay fresh eggs every day and a beautiful view of the mountains.   They also live just a 10 minute drive from one of the tallest waterfalls I have ever seen, 55 meters!

Bridal Veil Falls

Fresh potatoes at Karin and Ollie's house

The festival in Raglan went for 2 days straight- music, BBQs, great food and amazing people.  It was one of the best New Years celebrations I've ever been to.  The next morning we hiked down to the ocean and took a swim, harvested some green lipped muscles and had a huge feed with everyone that was still at the campground, what a great way to start a new year.

Final sunset of 2010

The view from the campground and New Years Party

Our final night in Raglan we went back to Ollie and Karin's and had a chill BBQ with some of their friends who had come down from Auckland- after a weekend of partying it was great to just hang out and eat a bit (more) good food.  We grilled a bunch of vegetables from their garden and drank some home brew that Ollie had been working on.  It was perfect.

We are back in Wellington now for 1 more week before we head down the south island on the 11th of January.  We have had an amazing time here but we are ready to move on and see new things and find new adventures. 

Happy New Year to you all!

xoxo